The fashion icon Edward Enninful discusses Today's Society: 'Britain Feels Less Tolerant Now' Compared to the Nineties.

An unexpected discovery while riding the tube in 1988 transformed the course of a young Ghanaian arrival to Britain. Scouted as a model, Edward Enninful was quickly drawn into the London's electric 1990s cultural landscape, moving from model to stylist and, by the age of 18, becoming the fashion director of i-D magazine.

"It was the height of the Britart scene – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I encountered Kate Moss at a casting," he remembers. "Then Naomi Campbell for a cover, and I felt we’d be great friends. We all mixed across disciplines. Friday bled into Saturday into Sunday. I long for that energy."

Although Enninful appears nostalgic, he is not the only one. In recent times, a wistful romanticisation of the 1990s has become pervasive. Yet over the last thirty years, Enninful believes a profound shift. "In my view, we’re more divided now than we were in the 90s," he remarks. "This isn't just this country – it’s a global phenomenon."

Shifting Attitudes

This shift is difficult to overlook: the rise of populist movements, the reaction against progressive values, and the reinforcement of Eurocentric beauty standards. Where once there was the optimism of the Blair era, now a different political force looms as a potential leader. Furthermore, the British flag, once an symbol of Cool Britannia, has returned as a polarising symbol.

For Enninful, the response has always been to promote culture in all its diversity. This was the driving force behind his seminal issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a celebration of modern Britain, showcasing a wide range of cultural icons from art.

"Individuals with a platform should employ it," he asserts, referring to those publishing choices. "There is much discussion about immigration; I wouldn't be here if Britain was not a open country, if it hadn't given my family a refuge and an opportunity. That’s the Britain I cherished. I believe this moment will fade."

A New Wave of Consciousness

He draws solace in the next generation: "They are far more conscious than we were. They discuss systemic issues – I was not even aware what that was."

The beginnings of his career would forge a trailblazing career built on boldness and inclusivity. Enninful made history as the first man, first Black editor, first gay man, and first disabled gay man of colour to lead at British Vogue. His tenure featured landmark covers showcasing Black models, plus-sized women, older individuals, and individuals from varied communities. Significantly, sales rose.

"When you ignore vast segments of the population, it’s more than that you’re failing to represent – it’s a poor strategy," he states.

A New Chapter as a 'Disruptor'

He has since founded his agency EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his first major project since departing his former post. He states his aim to continue being a "disruptor".

"I constantly interrogate the status quo. I was raised in a place where the majority was Black – the doctors, the lawyers, the president. Then we arrived in England, with nothing, and I was a minority. I was incredibly timid. My teachers said I’d never amount to anything. Me and my brothers were subject to police stops the Sus laws … all that gave me a unique perspective on the inside and the outside."

Defying the popular image of fashion editors as brash and highly strung, Enninful is measured in tone and projects peace. His path has included its share of hardship, including publicly shared battles with depression and addiction.

He has also endured significant health issues, having undergone several surgeries on his eyes, leading to impaired eyesight. "I experienced such a time of fear for two years, not working, fearing I was going to lose my sight. It’s similar to PTSD; you just live in fear 24/7. I prayed, if this ever passes, I’m just going to do everything that I was so afraid to do. I’m not going to confine myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion."

The Tate Britain Exhibition

This refusal to fit into a box has led him outside the industry that made his name. He is now putting together a significant 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, showcasing work by a host of pivotal artists and photographers from the era. The show, he says, aims to explore the decade's artistic collaboration – and give platform to those who did not receive due recognition at the time.

"Institutions didn't always celebrate the right artists because they did not have the expected background," he comments.

This venture itself functions with a different business model, forgoing traditional advertising in favour of partnership-based projects. "The question is, what can we achieve in partnership? Is it an experience, a series? The magazine is part of a greater ecosystem."

Looking Forward Without Fear

Currently, Enninful stands as one of the world's most respected industry leaders. His journey, he feels, is a demonstration to the power of following your instincts.

What would the Enninful of that era think of the his current self? He laughs heartily. "It would be a surprise, but he’d be proud. In those days I was sceptical of institutions. I would not have believed institutions like Tate were within my reach."

He adds. "Nothing is assumed. We were displaced, we fled our country. I came close to losing my vision. So fear isn't an option. People have counted me out my entire life. But no obstacle is too great once I’ve set my intention to do something."